6/10/19 – 6/11/19 Nobody tenderfoots around in the country mornings. I awoke at 4:30 to stereos, motos, machetes chopping wood to stoke ovens for the day, men yelling to one another across the street, roosters, pigs, all the birds in the trees, and metal shop doors rolling up and slamming against the backstop. All of
5/30 /19– 6/9/19 By the time we arrived in Granada, on the thirtieth of May, my rear hub was trashed. In the preceding three or four days I’d been hearing intermittent clicking; like a plastic fork being snapped in half. Eventually it became a persistent and oppressive grinding and I knew it was the bearings.
5/20/19 – 5/27/19 “She’s all yours if you want her.” “Come again?” “What’s mine is yours, you know” “We’re just cooking breakfast.” “Alright my man, scramble those eggs.” Derek was from Chicago. He had a small house in Granada with an extra room for rent. I’d met him at a bar and mentioned I was
5/16/19 – 5/20/19 “He’s digging a hole,” Soph said with little girl sad voice. The night before we noticed one of their puppies was disoriented. The old man had accidentally stepped on one, but he said that it was fine. This didn’t look like an injury. It seemed like a problem in its head or
5/11/19 – 5/15/19 It was pure morning. Dew boiled off tarmac. Sun slid up from behind strident peaks. Smoke wafted from roadside tiendas grilling chicken and tortillas and mixed with the humidity and scent of nature’s decomposing surplus of bananas and mangoes which gravity constantly plucked from trees and forgot on the ground. Cars played
5/7/19 – 5/10/19 Out of San Juan Caldera there is one great hill. I managed to keep up with Yvan’s young legs for the climb and he and I waited for Soph at the top. From there it descends for several kilometers into a nothing town called Parramos. As we gained speed my sweat was
5/6/19 – 5/7/19 Jonas and Maria cooked us a massive breakfast before setting out to the volcano. From what I can tell, you are supposed to have a guide for this hike because a few people froze to death near the top in 2018. At the same time, they don’t appear to enforce this strongly.
5/4/19 – 5/5/19 I struggle to load my bike onto the little boat at the docks in San Pedro and out of the corner of my eye see the porter trying to put Soph’s bike on the top. “Por favor no.” He keeps doing it. He can barely lift it, he’s knocking the drive train
4/27/19 – 5/3/19 The thing about learning a language is that at some point you have to begin saying things that are more complicated than “Where is the bathroom?” If you’re a first-worlder in Latin America, even with the observational prowess equivalent to that of a grown man with a third grade reading level, you
4/21 – 4/26 We crossed into Guatemala on April twenty first, my thirty sixth birthday. The night before had been spent in a border motel where they lock a massive gate at night so nobody gets in or out. A strange cast of characters ran between one another’s room shouting, slamming doors, smoking, and occasionally making