Trampolina del Muerte

8/31/19 – 9/3/19 Early the morning of August thirty first Soph got on a bus to Popayan.  I retraced our path to the east and then took highway forty five south.  Riding in the early morning is a rare treat.  The road has a different look and feel.  The air tastes sweeter.  I fly through Read More

Desierto Tatacoa to San Augustin

8/24/19 – 8/30/19 Feeling better. Downhill dirt road out of town.  Perfection. Loud bugs and strong smells.  Lunch in Alpujarra.  Half a dozen women with the usual half dozen questions.  Pictures with arms around us and thumbs up.  We gave one a card and she left rubbing it between her thumbs, ear to ear smile.  Read More

Wet sand, loose stool

Salento to Dolores 8/17/19 – 8/24/19 Salento was packed with tourists.  We arrived late afternoon and spent two hours calling and knocking on hotel doors only to find them booked.  We eventually found one that appeared to be under construction.  It smelled of musty cigars and the boiler, we later found out, was prone to Read More

Jericó to Salento

8/11/19 – 8/17/19 From the Rio Cauca, the road climbs one thousand six hundred meters towards Jericó in just over twenty kilometers.  It’s hot when you begin the ascent to Jericó.  It’s cold when you reach Jericó.  We’d only planned on one night there.  It was just an intermediate point to get to a town Read More


7/31/19 – 8/10/19 From the Gondola that takes you to Parque Arví one can glance into windows of homes just fifteen feet below.  Women in bathrobes cooking breakfast, men getting drunk to start the day, children in uniforms skipping down the neglected streets of the hinterlands.  Striking to me was the fact that Medellin was Read More

Cartegena to the Andes: More mangoes, better mangoes

7/20/19 – 7/29/119 I’d been building Colombia up in my mind for weeks.  The chaos of densely populated Central American towns had left me yearning for a bit of desolation.  In my head, I had painted it to be a place where we could slip away from civilization again.  I had no basis for this Read More

Sailing the Seas of Cheese: San Blas Islands

7/15/19 – 7/20/19 Sailing from Panamá to Colombia via the San Blas Islands is a bit like living in a Bud Light commercial. Everyone is young and successful with visible abdominal muscles and revealing clothing. You drink cheap beer on a million dollars’ worth of molded fiberglass and epoxy while great friends that you barely Read More

Puerto Lindo – The Vortex

7/11/19 – 7/14/19 It was Monday, July 15th.  I’d lost track of how many days we’d been in Puerto Lindo.  In reality, it was probably four or so.  It felt like a winter.  A sunny, breezy, cervesa soaked last dollar in your pocket kind of winter.  I was sitting in my little chair in front Read More

Morgan Freeman’s Voice

7/8/19 – 7/10/19 There is an actual Spanish word for “Zipper”, but “zipa” appears to be more common.  I point to the crotch of my pants and ask where I can get it fixed.  I realize the dangers of such a question with my poor grasp of the language, but we seem to have an Read More

Li’l Debbies and Arizona Iced Tea

6/28/19 – 7/7/19 There is a philosophy with older cars that it is best not to change the oil.  You should top it off and change the filter periodically, but some of the particulate matter in older oil actually works its way into and marinates and plugs worn seals.  A fresh oil change in an Read More

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