From Xavier’s place we rode about fifty five kilometers to Whitehorse, the capital of the Yukon.  Depending on the source, you will be told that somewhere between 35,000 and 40,000 people live in the province.  All but about 5,000 of them live in Whitehorse, which is probably about half the size of Texas.  There are Read More

Welcome to Canada

Sometimes things don’t go as planned.  After Beaver Creek, we saw that there was a Creperie up ahead.  The milepost description was something to the effect of: Pine Valley Bakery & Crepery is a historic Alaska Highway Lodge lovingly resurrected by your hosts Olivier and Mylene, who invite you to enjoy real French pastries and Read More

Last Days of Alaska

On Thursday morning we woke up to a flat mattress.  It was the 19th of July.  This had been going on for the last 10 days or so.  There were close to 10 pathces in it at this point.  It took me an hour to get out of bed.  Our tent was over a small Read More

The Denali Highway

After Denali National Park, our next stretch was The Denali Highway.  This was slated to be the most desolate section yet.  The road runs from Cantwell (about 35 miles south of the park) for 135 miles to Paxson.  Most of it is moderately maintained dirt with a few sections of chip seal and asphalt. We Read More

July Expenses

Here is a summary of our expenses for July.  I won’t post these every month, but perhaps whenever we enter a new place and it seems interesting to do so.  We were significantly above our initial budget, although Alaska and the Yukon are likely to be some of the most expensive places that we go Read More

The Teachings of John Juan

“Ok, you must be Chris.”  He was 30 minutes late, but it didn’t seem to bother him.  “So today we will be doing fish identification.”  Circa 2011 I had ended up working in the Virgin Islands on a government project.  I quit my job in the middle of the design phase and had agreed to Read More

Lessons from Alaska

I’m writing this as our first month on the road – and our time in Alaska – draws to a close. We are currently in Tok, a ‘town’ 90 miles from the Canadian border. Every place we’ve been to over the past four weeks has been so beautiful, it didn’t occur to either of us Read More


For reasons unknown to me, I regained feeling in my foot somewhere between the Toklat River and Polychrome Pass.  It had been cold, rainy, and gray for the last twenty four hours.  Ever since an incident in my late teens that involved underage drinking, the police, and a barefooted 1 mile sprint, my feet were Read More

Week 1: Homer to Denali

We’ve been moving for a week now.  It’s Monday, July 9th.  This morning we boarded a train from Anchorage to Denali.  It feels a bit strange to skip ahead this early in the trip, but the forecast is projecting 25-40 mph winds and hellatious rain over the next few days.  Riding and camping in that Read More

Bears are just introverts

More than at any other point in my life I have recently been asked what I am most afraid of. Fortunately, I’ve given the various ways I might expire a good deal of thought, so I am able to answer, merrily and without pause: “Bears!”. Having spent most of my life in England, where the Read More

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